November 10, 2025

I drove into Ouray, CO, took a deep breath, and exhaled with relief. I’d driven in northbound from Durango, not realizing I was headed for the famous—or one might say infamous—Million Dollar Highway. A sign when I passed through Silverton had mentioned narrow lanes and steep drop-offs ahead, but I’d paid little attention to it. I was focused on my destination: the 1876 mining town of Ouray.

It only took a few miles on the twenty-five-mile stretch before I knew exactly what I’d gotten myself into. Thanks to clear skies, perfect road conditions, and little to no traffic, I managed it without mishap.

I found a parking place and set out to explore. Shops and cafes lined Main Street, and I took my time strolling along. Ouray Books, intriguingly located in a subterranean space beneath Mouse’s Chocolates, drew me in. After all, how could I go wrong with a combination of books and chocolate in such close proximity? I moved on from there, a new book tucked under my arm, and continued down the street to the Goldbelt Bar and Grill, where I jotted down notes while enjoying a Mountain Salad that included fresh greens, apples, cranberries, pecans, and balsamic dressing.

There are several historic hotels in Ouray, but I could only stay in one for the night. I took a few pictures of the 1981 Western Hotel, then stopped into the Beaumont Hotel to admire the impressive lobby. Either would have been wonderful, but I had another in mind.

I’d had the St. Elmo Hotel bookmarked for decades, but this was my first chance to visit. The hotel dates back to 1898, when it was first run by Catherine “Kittie” Heit, a much-loved local businessperson in the community. It was just the type of historic accommodation I tend to seek out, charming right down to the Tiffany lamps found throughout the building. I checked into Room 4, a quaint upstairs room with floral wallpaper and a cozy sitting area. It was a perfect place to land after a white-knuckle day on the highway.

Unlike many mining towns that are nothing more than ghost towns now, Ouray has continued to hold onto its roots. It now allows visitors a charming glance into the past while offering historic accommodations, a wide variety of dining options, and opportunities for shopping, visiting museums, and soaking in hot springs along with other outdoor activities.

A light breakfast in a common area downstairs got the next day started. I knew I had a good distance to drive, so I gathered my things, said goodbye, and hit the road. An easier road this time.