Feb. 1, 2003

I headed east along Interstate 10, my map resting on the passenger seat. It wasn’t long before I began to feel the lure of the Hill Country calling me. Since my only other Hill Country experience involved a new engine for the car and a cast on my left hand, it seemed only fair to give it another chance.

I turned off on Rte. 250, heading east through the rolling, oak-covered hills until I reached the town of Fredericksburg, founded in 1846 by German immigrants. The streets quickly became strasses and the houses, hauses, and signs on storefronts offered the friendly greeting of “Wilkommen”. The influence of the area’s original settlers was evident in all directions, including the wonderful architecture of the buildings along the main street.

I drove through the town once, as I often do, to get an overall feel for it, then backtracked and parked on a side street, grabbed my purse and camera and took off to explore.

Fredericksburg is not tiny, but it is compact enough to tour easily and certainly still falls into the “Small Town America” category. It took all of about a half block to realize I’d never be able to see everything in an hour’s break from the road. So it was convenient when a stairway caught my eye, resting to the left side of a shop and art gallery. It was a row of plants in pots on the steps that initially grabbed my attention. I backed up on the sidewalk, took a picture and apologized to other pedestrians walking by for blocking the walkway.

Resuming my picture-taking, it was then that I spied a sign at the top of the stairs. “The Copper Tub, Bed and Pastries,” it announced, with directions to inquire within. Now, it was Saturday night and I doubted there was any chance it was vacant, but I thought I’d ask about it anyway. I often get ideas for future trips this way.

Grace’s Art Gallery is housed in the birthplace of Fleet Admiral Chester W. Nimitz, who was born on Feb. 24, 1885, in a small room that now houses beautiful artwork of wood, glass and pottery. Just above this room is the converted loft now used as “The Copper Tub,” a spacious bed and breakfast space with a rustic, cozy feel and a huge namesake copper tub, which comes equipped with bubble bath and candles. Though there isn’t a phone in the loft, there’s a comfortable bed, sitting area, writing table, television, refrigerator, microwave, coffee pot, and an old-fashioned radio set to a country station.

Of course, by some kind of magic that I seem to encounter when I travel, it was available. I immediately felt I owed it to both Admiral Nimitz and Grace, who was kind enough to take a break from the gift shop and show me the space, to stay for the night.

Grace is a petite, cheerful woman with soft, black hair and dramatic eyes. She not only runs the gallery, but is an artist who makes wonderful crosses and plaques, as well as the planters that had first drawn my attention to the stairs. Many of these items were on display in the shop and on the front porch.

After taking care of her last few customers and closing up the shop, she gave me a key and allowed me to get settled in. Already reasonably priced, she discounted the loft a little in exchange for the lack of pastries usually included when booked with normal advance notice and instead gave me directions to the recommended bakeries in town, as well as a dinner location. She left, then returned with bottled water and two Florida oranges, which I thought was wonderfully thoughtful. Off then for a movie with her family, I was left to enjoy the loft.

Fredericksburg is a town rich in architecture, with plenty of places to explore. I felt the pull between wanting to hide out and enjoy the loft and feeling eager to run up and down side streets, searching for photo opportunities. I did a little of each and eventually felt a wave of hunger approach.

On Grace’s recommendation, I chose not to dine at one of the restaurants within walking distance, but drove to the edge of town for a meal at Friedhelm’s Bavarian Inn. After a lengthy wait—it was, after all, Saturday night—I found myself seated at a small side table of the dining room, surrounded by a collection of large cowbells from Bavaria and listening to polka music. It didn’t take long for my food to arrive, a plate of sauerbraten, with red cabbage and spaetzles. It was delicious, and I saved a portion of it, with bread, for the next day.

To add to the festivities of the night, I managed to catch a tiny portion of the Sauerkrauts Show at the Fredericksburg Brewing Company, located next door to Grace’s building. By their own description, this performing group offers “Oompah With Attitude,” along with 12-foot wooden alpine horns and a national champion yodeler. They’ve been featured at EPCOT Center’s German Biergarten Show in Branson and Las Vegas and certainly proved to be a colorful, high energy group.

I settled in for the night, slept well and enjoyed a leisurely morning. After checking out, I browsed through the numerous shops and galleries that Fredericksburg has to offer. I can see why this would be a crowded town during the regular season, as it’s packed with shopping and dining choices. This is one of those towns that’s perfect for a weekend escape if you’ve got some money to spend.

But it’s also fun to explore on a limited budget, especially if history and museums are of interest. A small admission charge will get you into the National Museum of the Pacific War, which is housed in the former Nimitz Hotel, a steamboat-style structure built by Capt. Nimitz, grandfather of Admiral Nimitz.

Wineries, golf, rock-climbing, kayaking and fly fishing: all here. And I’m told Enchanted Rock State Park is beautiful, though I didn’t get a chance to check it out.

Come to think of it, this is the town that had iced cinnamon pretzels at the German bakery…yum. Well, that just makes it another town to remember for a return visit.