Jan. 30, 2003
I climbed the steep ascent on the one mile loop trail, listening for the sounds of men returning from hunting mule deer, women carrying corn, squash and beans home from nearby fields and young children singing or listening to story-telling. I strained to hear the gossip young girls might be telling while plaiting sandals from yucca leaves. I wanted to watch clay pots being formed and jewelry being designed from shells and feathers.

Only in my imagination could I hear these sounds and view these scenes, but seven hundred years ago they would have been very real, all part of the daily lives of the Mogollon people – pronounced Muggy-OWN, per the National Park brochure and helpful guide who offered information about the remarkable Gila Cliff Dwellings.

There are many unanswered questions about the Native American people who built homes in this remote section of what is now the Gila (pronounced HEE-La) National Forest. Archaeologists and historians are not sure why they came to live in these mountains and cliffs, building about 40 rooms out of stone, wood and clay. Nor is it known why they left, remaining only thirty to forty years, likely only one generation. It is thought that perhaps they got the idea to live in the caves from the Anasazi in the north, who were experienced cliff dwellers. They may have left to seek an easier way of life, because crops failed, or because something or someone scared them away. All that is known for sure is that they resided in five of seven natural caverns, approx. 180 feet above the canyon floor, from the 1270s to the early 1300s.

The structures within the caves remain remarkably preserved and show walls constructed with stone quarried from nearby sections of the cliff. Walls formed of these stones are plastered with clay and have many original timbers of wood (called vigas – VEE-gas) still in place. Through tree-rings, it is known that these vigas date to the 1270s and 1280s, indicating that the rooms were built during the first ten years that the Mogollon people occupied the cliffs.

The varying layout of the rooms indicates different usages, some work areas, others communal gathering places or ceremonial spaces. Yet others were likely used for storage of grains and other supplies. One room still holds corn cobs in a bin, which would have been ground using two stones – one larger and flat, the “metate” (meh-TAH-tay) and one smaller, the “mano” (MAH-no). Black soot from smoke shows where fires were built, both for warmth and to cook in clay pots and flat, heated stones. It is in these areas that feasts of venison and turkey were prepared, served with wild greens, corn, prickly pear and chokeberries.

Not listed in the park brochure or trail guide, but pointed out by the ranger giving a tour and answering questions, are several areas with clearly visible petroglyphs – one a human figure of some type, another actual hand prints. Yet another is described as a snake by the park service, yet appears to be two lizards when I magnify the image in one of my photos. At least this is what I see, but I’m hardly an archaeologist.

Visiting these ancient dwellings is a breathtaking experience, the mystical kind that allows history to seep into modern day consciousness and inhabit the hearts and minds of those who stand within the same spaces as the Mogollon did years ago. I found myself walking from room to room, amazed that visitors are actually allowed to climb stairs and ladders into the caves and individual rooms and experience this from such a close vantage point.

I believe I backtracked three times, walking along the narrow (but not enough to be dangerous or nerve-rattling) ledge, starting over again, taking more pictures and sometimes just standing still and listening to the silence. I had to finally drag myself away, in order to drive back out within daylight hours.

I had been told by numerous people, even some within the state of New Mexico, that the road was unpaved and very slow. Not so, I discovered. Though Rte. 15, which led north from Silver City, is full of twists and turns in some sections, I found it to be both paved and easy to navigate. In addition, the scenery along the way was gorgeous, making the almost two-hour trip of approx. 42 miles well worth the drive itself, even without such a reward at the end.

The park fee is $3.00, paid at a self-service station with envelopes provided, just before a bridge that leads to the beginning of the trail. Printed trail guides are available for a mere 50 cents, which give detailed information about specific locations along the trail and within the caves.

I took advantage of a stop at the Visitor Center before heading up to the cliff dwellings themselves, which I highly recommend. This center provides a wealth of information, offers exhibits of pottery and other artifacts, runs a short, informative film and is manned by an extremely knowledgeable park ranger.

What else can I say? I know vacations for some mean high fees and congested, crowded areas. I carried a granola bar in my camera case, kept bottled water in the car, and had an amazing adventure for less that $5.00. I’ll leave the theme parks to other people. I wouldn’t have had this day any other way.