July 25, 2007

I grabbed a cup of coffee from the motel lobby, which was fairly good, surprisingly. I’m not usually a fan of the styrofoam cup brew that is typical of lower-end lodging. After scavenging up a granola bar from the car, I packed up and hit the road.

I high-tailed it out of Santa Fe, not because I dislike the city, which is a fascinating place to visit. But because it just didn’t seem meant to be for this trip. I’d hit road construction, traffic, heavy rain, and hotel inconveniences, all the previous day. I was ready to make up for lost opportunities, so I decided to check out a place I’d missed on other trips. I headed north to Espanola and veered north-west from there.

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa has been attracting visitors since the mid-1800s, when prominent citizen Antonio Joseph opened both a mercantile and a health spa there. For centuries before that, however, it was well known to Native Americans and their ancestors. A detailed history of the property is available on the resort’s website.

I was ready to relax, and this seemed like the perfect place. I’d been to a few other mineral springs in other parts of the country. But this was my first time here, and I was glad to be able to add it to my “collection.” I booked a room in their hotel, grabbed a bite for lunch at The Artesian Restaurant, conveniently located just across the lobby from my room, and then headed out to the pools.

There are four minerals that emerge from the various natural springs in this area: soda, iron, arsenic and lithium. Each is believed to have different benefits to those who partake of the waters. In keeping with the modus operandi at these places, I decided to hop from pool to pool, spending a little time in each one before moving on to the next.

I managed to catch the Soda Pool when no one else was using it, which felt like a luxury, considering the resort is a popular spot for both locals and travelers. Located in an enclosed building, it had a “secret pool” type of ambiance.

The Iron Pool, located right next door to the Soda Pool building, is open to the skies and sits beside wonderful rock formations. It was hot, but comfortable once I became accustomed to it. I soaked up the water—along with the smell of iron, not as bad as it sounds—before moving on to another pool.

Now, I’ll admit the Arsenic/Iron Pools—the two minerals are mixed together—drew comments from more than one person stepping in. I was hesitant myself, never having thought of arsenic in a positive way. But I liked these pools the most. Backed up against the cliffs and out in the open air, these pools felt spacious. Surprisingly, they also smelled the best, in my opinion.

In addition to these pools, there is a large pool, where children are allowed during limited daytime hours. And then there is the Lithium Spring, a hand-pumped well in the center of the complex.

Ojo Caliente doesn’t just offer mineral pools. There’s a full-service spa, offering massages, facials, body scrubs, and more. I decided to give them the money that I had saved in Santa Fe the night before. This was a smart decision. By the time I returned to my room, I was Ms. Tranquility.

I hit the restaurant again for an excellent chicken quesadilla, and then retired to my room to edit some photos. I was able to pick up wireless access from the lobby, my room being the first one down the hall.

All in all, it was a darn good day. I read a little, slept well, had breakfast the next morning, and hit the road once again. I didn’t have a chance to explore the hiking trails or take a yoga class or walk the labyrinth. But you just can’t do everything.

Many believe that the mineral waters at Ojo Caliente have healing powers. I know they certainly healed my disappointment and irritation over the events of the day before. I left there relaxed, calm, and ready for the next adventure.