July 22, 2007
I pulled into Winslow, Arizona, around 7:30 pm and found my way to La Posada Hotel. I had visited this historic railroad hotel years ago, but had never had the opportunity to stay there. This trip I was determined to move it from my “wish list” to my “recommended lodging” list.

You would never know there was a magnificent lodging establishment on this property if you were to just drive by. Unless the sheer size of the structure—72,000 square feet—grabbed your curiosity, you might only see a haphazard sign, with nothing but dirt and distant train tracks behind it. But if you had heard about it ahead of time, or caught a documentary or one of many feature articles about the hotel, you’d know it was worth a stop.

This Mary Jane Colter masterpiece, a Fred Harvey, Santa Fe Railway hotel, has been in continual stages of restoration for many years. Much remains to be done, but what has already been accomplished is amazing. Thirty-seven remodeled guest rooms were up and running, with another entire wing yet to be tackled. The lobby and common areas were awe-inspiring, filled with original hotel artifacts, unique contemporary artwork and historical photos. There were sitting areas everywhere, some with videos showing different aspects of the remodeling and restoration process, some with tables for writing and visiting, some just offering comfortable couches and chairs in friendly arrangements.

Off the hallway that connects the hotel lobby to the guest rooms, doors opened to a classic mediterranean style garden. The Sunken Garden offered outdoor seating on an upper terrace level, next to a bubbling fountain. A few steps down, walkways ran along each side of a narrow lawn. This garden was a peaceful oasis, surrounded on three sides by exterior hotel walls to keep the heat from building up.

For many years, La Posada Hotel was a popular destination for Hollywood stars and politicians. Each room is named after a famous guest. I was given the Dorothy Lamour room, #212, located upstairs in the middle section of the building, where passing trains—fifty plus per day, between freight and Amtrak—wouldn’t be too noisy. Still, I propped open my windows to allow some of the ambiance of rattling wheels on tracks to sink in. After all, this was a railroad hotel. There was no reason to pass up an authentic experience.

Hospitality was clearly a priority, as the check-in process was easy and the desk clerk helpful. The room itself was spacious, with a private bath, small writing table, and television (no phone.) A tin star-shaped fixture bathed the entry hall with soft light, and Southwestern colors in peach and watermelon hues allowed the walls to offer a feeling of warmth. It was immaculate and comfortable, rustic and artsy at the same time. It was perfect for me.

Famished from the long drive, I tossed my bags on the bed and returned downstairs to the hotel’s restaurant, The Turquoise Room. I was seated in a comfortable booth, a real treat after a long day on the road.

I decided to order the “Killer Vegetable Platter,” which turned out to be an excellent choice. This was not a typical stir-fry concoction, but a feast of mini-portions, including sweet corn tamale, cheese-stuffed chili pepper, mushroom flan, grilled tofu, black beans, grilled corn on the cob, and a few other items, all presented on a piping hot platter. A salad was included, as well as a basket of assorted breads. It was a feast.

Some post-dinner wandering gave me time to take in some of the artwork and to sit in the Sunken Garden for awhile. But nine hours of driving caught up with me quickly. I turned in for the night, knowing fresh coffee would be waiting in the main hallway in the morning.

I left Winslow shortly after noon the next day, having stayed at La Posada until the last minute before check-out in order to soak in the extraordinary nature of the place. I took the time to watch an impressive video about the restoration of the building, as well as to indulge in a delicious breakfast in The Turquoise Room – eggs, shredded beef, red and green peppers, corn, tortilla strips, and jalapeño jack cheese, scrambled together. Served with black beans, it was worth every penny of the 8.95 price. I had a comfy booth again, a relaxing morning, and a great meal.