May 3, 2025

I made it to Upper Lake the first day of this trip. I’d tried to get to the Tallman Hotel for years and had finally made it. Too early to check in, I took a seat on the porch of the Blue Wing Saloon and ordered a salad. I needed lunch anyway, and I could take notes while waiting to check in. From the porch, I was able to look across the courtyard to the hotel, which was built around 1874. Like many old hotels, it was not immune to fire. It burned to the ground in 1895 but was rebuilt soon after. It operated for years as it passed between family members of the original owners, Rufus and Mary Ellen Tallman. Eventually—again like many older hotels—it fell into disrepair and was restored and reopened in 2006. The Blue Wing Saloon boasts an original grand piano, donated by descendants of Rufus and Mary Ellen Tallman.

My first stop on my way in had been at Clarke’s Collectibles and Lunch Box Museum in Nice. It was fascinating visiting with Deb, who owned it along with her husband. I saw more vintage lunch boxes than I could have imagined, whole categories of them such as western TV shows and music groups. They also had comics, animatronics, and odds and ends like metal clickers, ashtrays, and dolls. The unusual funky feeling of the place—crowded and cluttered with low lighting— worked as a positive to give it extra character, which was wonderful.

Back at the Blue Wing Saloon now, the salad turned out to be a delicious assortment of butternut squash, gigante beans, tomatoes, almonds, arugula, pimento, and onion served with a vinaigrette.

I checked into my room number (#12), an upstairs accommodation that was huge and featured a private balcony that looked over the garden and saloon patio area. It was much larger than many hotel rooms and was immaculate and peaceful, decorated with neutral tones of of beige, tan, and ivory. A touch of rose here and there added a soft pop of color.

I decided to sit out on the balcony with a cool drink and spiral binder for jotting down notes. Cheerful noise floated up from the patio of the saloon. Later there would be live music, so I knew it would get louder before the level of enthusiasm eased. I made the mistake of trying to have dinner down the street at another place which was unfortunately a poor call. But I went back to the Blue Wing Saloon and had the same salad I had ordered earlier, and it was equally delicious. Back in my room I relaxed and read for the rest of the evening. The next day I planned to drive north to Eureka and then on to Arcata, Port Orford, and Yachats. Although my plans have been known to change mid-trip, these were fairly set.

Morning at the Tallman Hotel brought a continental breakfast in the parlor. I was delighted to find orange juice and croissants with boysenberry jam. Soft music playing added to the peaceful start of the day. There were a few other guests there enjoying the food as well. It was a calm, wonderful atmosphere amidst intriguing décor such as elk sconces with pinecone lamp holders, an artistic upside-down parasol type ceiling lamp, and bird themes throughout, many exhibited in wonderful sketches and framed prints on the walls.

I finished up my meal and retired to sit on my room’s porch for the short amount of time I had left. I then gathered my belongings, thanked the front desk for the wonderful stay, and headed out.