August 2, 2007

I had several days available to wander around Ohio, so I took a look at my long-bookmarked sites and conjured up a plan for the next few days.

Just east of Lebanon, I caught Rte. 22 east through Washington’s Court House (that would be a town, not a building…) and Circleville, where I picked up Rte. 56 and followed that into South Bloomingville and beyond, where the road began to run alongside and then into Hocking Hills State Park.

I first learned of Hocking Hills years ago. I was just starting to do a little travel writing and had taken only one or two cross-country trips. I had decided to focus, among other things, on historic accommodations. After all, I couldn’t travel without having places to stay and there were such rich stories hidden within the walls of these places.

Located in the Appalachian foothills of southeast Ohio, Hocking Hills turned out to be an area filled with caves, waterfalls, and deep sandstone gorges. With nine state parks, there were plenty of activities for outdoor enthusiasts: hiking, swimming, horseback riding and canoeing, to name a few. Add fishing, bird-watching or a ride on a scenic railroad. It’s all there.

When I first visited this part of Ohio, I stayed in a very old, historic log cabin. It was a fun experience and gave me a chance to get familiar with the area. But now it was time to seek out lodging that was a little less rustic, something I could recommend to those looking for a peaceful escape or a romantic weekend getaway. So, as I drove into Hocking Hills State Park, I took a left on Rte. 374 and followed that a short distance to The Inn at Cedar Falls.

I’d had this inn on my wish list for longer than I could remember, and it had been recommended to me over and over again by other travelers. It lived up to all my expectations and then some. The property offers cabins and cottages as options, but I took a small room in the main inn, a traditional post and beam building, which houses nine guest rooms.

Each room is unique, featuring semi-rustic decor and supplied with ample amenities for a comfortable stay. There are no phones or televisions, so it is peaceful and relaxing. The bedding is heavenly and the bathroom is stocked with all the miniature soaps and lotions that I love. A coffee maker in the room was also a welcome sight, especially since homemade oatmeal cookies waited right next to it.

However, dinner before cookies. Based on the inn’s reputation for excellent food, I’d made a reservation in the dining room, housed in an 1840 log cabin at the front of the property. I was given a window table, overlooking the back patio and garden.

I loved everything about this restaurant, from the log cabin interior to the details of the table setting – quilted placemat, short vase with a single yellow spider mum, oil candle fashioned from a mason jar, appetizer tray with crackers, tomato pesto, bruschetta and a tiny Wisconsin cheese ball. Soft renditions of Broadway show tunes floated through the air. Oval glass pieces and dried orange slices hung by strings in the windows, at varying heights. The combination of everything was enchanting.

The format at this restaurant is a four course meal, counting the appetizer as the first course. This was followed by a roasted red pepper soup and a mixed green salad with a lemon vinaigrette dressing. Wisely, the serving sizes are not so large as to cause the guest to be full before the main entree arrived. Given the way I’d been eating at the last few places, I’m hesitant to admit that I ordered pasta again, but it seemed the lightest choice of the selections for that evening. The pasta contents were a perfect mix: sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, spinach, pine nuts and olive oil. Everything was delicious. This inn’s restaurant is frequented by many, both visitors to the area and locals, whether guests of the inn or not. I could see why it was so popular.

Breakfast was equally impressive, starting with a self-service buffet offering homemade granola, fresh fruit, and  yogurt. Milk was served in an old-fashioned carafe on ice. A hot entree of an egg strata, sausage patties, fresh fruit and mini cinnamon rolls was then delivered to the table. Again I had a window seat, this time looking out over a porch with a rocking chair. Very peaceful.

Of particular interest to me was finding out that my server, Sarah, was the granddaughter of Anna Castle, who established the inn based on a dream of hers, to create a peaceful retreat for city dwellers. It was built slowly through hard work, personal sacrifice, and determination. Anna was fortunate to see her dream become reality, but succumbed shortly thereafter to cancer. Her daughter, Sarah’s mother, Ellen, now owns the inn, along with her husband Terry. Home on college vacation, Sarah was able to give me an inside view of the inn. It’s an inspirational story, refreshing when compared with the corporate background of many places.

The inn has a spa, though I didn’t have time to enjoy it. Facilities for small group meetings and retreats are also available and cooking and photography workshops are also offered.

Needless to say, I checked out of this inn reluctantly. I would have loved to stay another day, but I had another Ohio inn farther north on my radar. I did a little shopping at the inn’s gift shop, which was stocked with a great selection of items.

I attempted to stop and do a bit of hiking before leaving Hocking Hills State Park, but the humidity… well, I’m a California girl and used to dry heat. Even the locals were complaining about the humidity being worse than usual, so I felt only halfway wimpy when I gave up on outdoor activities and hit the road.