August 1, 2007

So let’s talk about old hotels. Really, really old, historic hotels. There are many throughout the U.S., some falling apart, some restored and some in-between. I’ve been to quite a few and I think they’re fabulous. Their walls simply ooze with history, whispering stories and gossip from centuries ago.

Their decor, whether dark Victorian or stark Shaker or early Colonial, can throw a visitor into time travel with just one step through the front door. They could have faded carpets or weathered shutters. The wind might be heard whistling through a few tiny cracks along window sills. Floors may be slanted or sagging with the weight of years gone by. It all just adds to the charm.

It’s not uncommon in very old hotels to have several floors and no elevator. A guest needs to plan in advance if stairs will be a problem, making sure to reserve a ground floor room before the reservations fill up. Then again, you might save a little money if you’re up for some exercise. Many of these lodging establishments have a few smaller rooms on the top floors, often with bathrooms down the hall, These are economical little hideaways, a chance to enjoy the ambiance of the hotel at an affordable price. Burning off calories while climbing up to your room is provided at no extra charge.

This is where you’re likely to find me if you track me down at a historic hotel. So it should come as no surprise that when I checked into The Golden Lamb in Lebanon, Ohio, I dragged my overnight bag, laptop and camera equipment slowly up three flights of stairs, finally landing on the fourth floor. I fumbled with the lock to the William Howard Taft Room, cracked open the door and gratefully collapsed on the bed. I had driven in from Indiana by way of Kentucky, enduring some late afternoon Louisville traffic. I was glad to be off the modern roads and peacefully resting two centuries back in time.

The Golden Lamb was recommended to me long ago by an east coast friend. I’d had it bookmarked for several years, but had never been able to work it into my cross-country plans. It was finally time to move it from my wish list to my reality list.

Established in 1803, this inn holds the status of being Ohio’s oldest hotel and has a colorful past that includes stagecoach stopovers, gatherings of politicians, productions of plays and various theatre acts, socializing at the adjacent Black Horse Tavern, and numerous visits from presidents and dignitaries. Twelve presidents, in fact, are proudly listed on a plaque in the front hallway. Not to mention a visit from Charles Dickens, who expressed dismay over not being able to order an alcoholic drink, as the inn was a temperance hotel at that time.

There is a long history on the inn’s website, detailing dates, building reconstructions and changes of ownership. One thing is clear: The Golden Lamb has been prominent in Ohio’s history for the last two centuries.

One major claim to fame at this inn is the restaurant, so I headed back down the three flights of stairs and took a small table in one of several dining rooms. In keeping with the historic ambiance of the inn, the restaurant employees wore outfits typical of the 19th century.

It’s clear by now to readers that I was eating my way across the country and I kept up with that reputation here by ordering shrimp and scallop pasta with prosciutto and leeks in a garlic cream sauce, served over cracked peppercorn fettuccini. Hey, it wasn’t that decadent – after all, it was served with a small salad. And, for what it’s worth, my habit is to eat half of a dinner meal and save the other half for lunch the following day. (You really shouldn’t travel unless you can pack leftovers in a bathroom basin filled with ice.)

I spent the remainder of the evening resting. I was able to hitch a ride online through a free Cincinnati network. Before leaving the next day, I took a few photographs, visited the basement gift shop, and had one more meal – a chicken wrap, with tomatoes, lettuce, bacon, and a side of fresh fruit. It was served with a celery seed dressing for dipping, a Golden Lamb specialty that can be purchased by the jar in the front lobby.

I loved that The Golden Lamb had such an authentic feel to it. As compared with some historic lodging establishments, which are restored and remodeled to a squeaky clean elegance that is almost antiseptic, this offered a genuine step into the past. And the prices? My room – very spacious, with a private bath, double bed, dresser, TV and telephone – was a whopping $67. Can’t beat that.