August 3, 2007
In the Lock 27 Tavern, downstairs from The Olde Warehouse Restaurant in Coshocton, OH, I plugged my cell phone into the wall to recharge. I didn’t miss the irony of the direct contrast to the 1830 building around me, but modern times on the road call for modern methods, even in historic surroundings.
Roscoe Village, a restored canal town offering a step back into the 19th century, seemed like a convenient place to pause on my way north from Ohio’s Hocking Hills region. It was early evening, and I knew my stop wasn’t timed correctly for seeing the costumed interpreters, hands-on craft workshops, and educational programs the village offers. I would not be dipping candles or making rope or learning the trade of blacksmithing. But the historic red brick buildings were vibrant in the day’s late sun and a stroll down the main street allowed me to take in the scenery without the clatter and chatter of tourist activity.
There were a variety of lodging options in the area, but my list of possibilities extended out for a radius of fifty miles or so. I downed a diet soda, packed my phone’s battery with enough juice to get me up the road and made a few calls after leaving the tavern. Finding an opening in an intriguing inn, I continued north.
Millersburg, OH, sits in the midst of Holmes County’s Amish country. It’s a peaceful, scenic area with a noticeable absence of congestion, traffic or stress. It was here that I found a room at The Barn Inn, an enormous, beautifully restored old barn on the site of the former Honey Run Dairy Farm of the early 1900s. Built in 1919 to replace an earlier structure that was destroyed by lightning-related fire, it was restored in 1997 by new owners Paul and Loretta Coblentz, beginning its new life as an exquisite bed and breakfast.
I stepped inside to find 34 foot ceilings, tall windows that let in streams of light and an open building plan that positioned the second floor to look down over railings into the great room. Guest rooms were located on both the ground floor and upstairs and common lounge areas were plentiful. I was shown to the Rose Garden, an upper floor room that was both elegant and spacious. A back door opened out to a balcony that overlooked a back pasture and, beyond that, a small area of woods.
It was immediately apparent that a high priority was placed on hospitality. Both owners were raised within the Amish community and were enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge of the area. An informative presentation given over breakfast was one of the bonuses. After reluctantly checking out, I headed straight for some of the morning’s recommendations.
Had I not stayed at The Barn Inn, I would have passed right by Lehman’s. I’ve never been a Home Depot sort of girl, so it was only by suggestion that I stepped into the store. Hardly the corner hardware store I would have envisioned, the 32,000 square foot space held every non-electric contraption ever invented, or close to it. Apple peelers, cast iron string dispensers, corn huskers, kegs, barrels, canning jars, candle sharpeners, butter mills and chimney brushes – they were all there. And the place was crowded, both with local Amish customers and visiting gawkers. It was beyond fascinating.
I continued up the road from there, slowing down to cautiously pass a horse and buggy, and pulled into Gerber’s Poultry. Just as I’d been told, a spread of BBQ chicken was being prepared on an expansive grill behind the business. It provided a great lunch option to regular restaurant dining, though the area offers many recommended eateries.
Still following morning tips, I made another stop at Heini’s Cheese Chalet, where over fifty varieties of cheese are available for tasting. Dating back to the late 1800s, the cheese factory was purchased by the Swiss Dauwalder family in 1935, who brought their cheese-making skills to America and, using only Amish milk from the local community, produce over seventy varieties of cheese. A viewing area allows visitors to watch the process in action. Behind one tasting counter, two young Amish girls in traditional clothing worked refilling the trays of samples. They whispered and smiled to each other, not speaking directly to customers, but clearly enjoying their work.
In an area this rich in culture and history, a one night stay is not enough to adequately explore the region and learn about the traditions and lifestyle of the local community. The Amish and Mennonite Heritage Center and its circular mural would have to wait for another visit, as would Yoder’s Amish Farm, which offers tours of two Amish houses, a one-room schoolhouse and historic 1885 barn. Small farmhouses on back roads held quilts and homemade crafts that would need to stay on hold for future purchases.
It was all part of the road trip experience; small discoveries really lead to the knowledge that there’s so much more to be discovered. This area of Ohio, with its wealth of educational opportunities and fascinating sights, would need to be revisited.