April 28, 2024
Traveling southbound along California’s Marin County coast from Point Reyes Station, I soon found myself questioning my intended route. My map had indicated that Bolinas was just fourteen miles down the road, but I felt like I’d been driving forever without seeing a single sign. Even at a fork in the road, knowing that one direction would lead to the small coastal town, there was nothing to indicate which way to go. It is said that any signs that go up are quickly removed; the locals prefer it that way.
At a fork in the road, I opted to follow one of the directions—after all, I had a fifty-fifty chance of success. A clue that I was getting close came in the way of a sign stating that the town had been without a post office for 422 days. I would come to find out that the town’s first post office opened in 1863 but closed in 2023 due to a lease issue. Plans were in the works for it to reopen, but at the time of my visit, residents needed to pick up mail in nearby Stinson Beach. I continued on and soon arrived at my destination.
My first impression of Bolinas led me to question whether I had arrived by means of a flux capacitor instead of my trusty Subaru. It took a quick reality check to reassure myself I hadn’t traveled back in time. The feeling was both entrancing and slightly unsettling. Overall, I was smitten.
Smiley’s, the town’s landmark saloon, has been around since 1851, existing under a variety of owners, names, and uses. The current establishment offers lodging, food, and local entertainment, and I was lucky enough to enjoy all of it during my visit. Lively music greeted me upon arrival, courtesy of a spirited band on an outdoor deck. Locals and guests tapped their feet, sipped drinks, and exchanged tales at patio tables, on the sidewalk, and even in the dusty parking lot.
I’d reserved a room for the night, so I grabbed my overnight bag from the car and headed to the bar to check in. I soon settled in at the back of the property in one of six rooms not attached to the main building itself. In contrast to the funky saloon—and I say that affectionately—the room boasted soothing colors, a vaulted ceiling, and seaside touches such as netting and shells on the wall. A small porch and chair surrounded by a lush garden provided yet another bonus.
I ventured back out to enjoy the music and to saunter around the town. With the sound of guitars and fiddles drifting through the air, I browsed shop windows and admired the weathered buildings typical of oceanside towns. When I returned, I was ready for something to eat. The saloon is also the restaurant, and I placed my order at the same bar counter where I’d checked in. The place was packed, noisy, and full of energy. With all the tables occupied, I found a counter seat and was soon feasting on a bowl of quinoa verde, tofu, black beans, veggies, and assorted greens. When I say it was delicious, I mean so delicious that I’d drive back there just for that dish.
Bolinas is a quirky hamlet, and I loved every minute there. On my way out, I pulled over at the sign detailing the days without the post office. Sure enough, it had been updated to 423 days. Like many other aspects of my visit, I found the daily update of that sign to be charming, just one more unique aspect of a town full of character.
