Feb. 18, 2003

I came into San Antonio during evening hours, having fallen prey to the magic of Luckenbach earlier in the day and, even after that, spending time in the German immigrant town of Boerne.

The drive between Boerne and San Antonio is all-too-familiar to me, and I must say I much prefer it without an ice pack on my hand. And the comfortable motel room that I found looked far more appealing than the emergency room of my former visit. I spent a pleasant night, lingered in the morning to enjoy both the local access and noon check-out, then headed into town to explore one not-yet-seen area: Riverwalk.

Now, I had heard and read that this area of San Antonio was very cool and fun, but I just didn’t have a visual image of what it was. I figured they have a river, built some shops along it, of course no big deal. I almost skipped it again, as I’d done in the past, but when an email from a friend said it was worth seeing, I decided to check it out.

I found a parking lot just behind La Villita, a cluster of shops, art galleries, and restaurants housed in the original walled village of Old San Antonio. The $4. fee seemed reasonable, payable in advance to a kind, smiling señora who greeted me cheerfully and motioned me over to a nice parking spot on the side of the lot.

San Antonio—or, more accurately, a group of local businesses—puts out a good souvenir map of the downtown and Riverwalk area. I had asked the desk clerk for directions when I checked out of the motel and she handed me, with well-practiced skill, a large, printed layout. I carried this with me when I left the car, stopping first to admire the colorful goods available in La Villita’s shops, then heading north along South Alamo, in search of the river.

Now, I have to admit this was about this time it occurred to me that The Alamo must be in San Antonio. Like all good American school children, I’d studied history at some point, but it clearly went in one ear and out the other. Looking at my trusty map, sure enough, the historic site was exactly two blocks away.  Leave it to me to drive thousands of miles and stumble upon The Alamo by accident.  I made a mental note to stop by there later on.

Clueless as I can obviously be at times, I was wrapped photographing brightly painted statues of cows when I thought to look over the side of a quaint bridge on Market St. Here I finally found the river, as well as a wonderland of outdoor cafes and interesting shops, all accessible either by foot or by boat. It’s kind of a miracle, between history realizations and decorative bovine that I found Riverwalk at all, but I was down the nearest staircase within seconds, camera in tow.

I often boycott tourist-type areas, not caring for the crowds and consumer hype. But I happened into San Antonio on a weekday, off-season, and so I found this popular tourist area calm, peaceful, not the least bit crowded, and therefore easy to explore.

The landscaping was nothing short of spectacular, lush and green and perfectly blended with the old Spanish architecture of surrounding buildings. I wandered around, watched tour boats float by, and checked out many of the local eateries. I finally grabbed a table right next to the river at The Republic of Texas, where I ordered an enchilada/taco combo plate. Impatient ducks and black crows waited anxiously for crumbs. With dozens of restaurants lining the walkway, they certainly knew where to hang out.

Continually lured by historic hotels, I couldn’t pass by La Mansion del Rio Hotel, an impressive building that rises proudly above the river and offers 337 luxury rooms, without ducking inside to take a peek.  This former school building for the Society of Mary dates back to 1852 and has been remodeled and expanded over the years.  It was gorgeous.  I didn’t see the inside of a room, but their brochure states they have wood beams and brick walls and look out over the river.  Add to this a 4-star restaurant, cotton robes, and high speed internet access. This place went instantly onto my wish list. They were offering a French Music Festival for Valentines weekend, complete with champagne and chocolate reception. Yep, wish list on this one for sure, along with the nearby Menger Hotel and also the Riverside Inn, built from old Tennessee log cabins.

There was too much to discover at Riverwalk for a quick afternoon stopover.  I can imagine, in spite of crowds, that it would be worth it to indulge in a weekend exploration, maybe during Mardi Gras or Christmas, when special decorations and events are offered.

I took a few pictures and dragged myself back up the stairs.  I could have lingered for much longer, but by now another voice was haunting me.

I was remembering The Alamo.