May 6, 2004

I woke up to the glimmer of water reflecting against my windows. Dramatic lighting filtered through the clouds and across Penn Cove, a secluded inlet on the east side of Whidbey Island, Washington. I flipped the switch on the room’s coffeemaker and settled back against the pillows of my featherbed to enjoy the view.

I had made it to another historic lodging that had long been on my “wish list,” The Captain Whidbey Inn. This rustic, 1907 inn was originally opened as The Whid-Isle Inn, to serve as a resort for visiting tourists from nearby Seattle and Tacoma. Built from local madrona logs, this two-story lodging sits on peaceful, park-like grounds and offers rooms in the original building, as well as more recently constructed lagoon rooms, cabins, and cottages.

Because I arrived mid-week and the inn was fairly empty, I was upgraded from the usual small room I reserved on these trips to the waterview suite (Room 4) where I now poured myself a cup of coffee. A typical set-up for historic buildings, the room offered a sink, while the bathroom was located across the hall. The accommodations were wonderful, a perfect combination of rustic and luxurious. The view of the cove was amazing and—with the exception of occasional sound from happy guests in the first floor dining room—this was a peaceful haven for the night.

As opposed to the first guests of the early 1900s, I had not arrived by paddlewheel steamer. Today’s visitors have the option of reaching Whidbey Island by either ferry or roadway. I had chosen to take Highway 20 west from the mainland, crossing over onto the island by way of the Deception Pass Bridge.

The extraordinary view of Deception Pass—so named because it was originally mistaken for a peninsula, rather than an island—would have been worth the trip itself, even without adding island exploration to the journey. Deception Pass State Park offers camping, hiking, boating, picnicking, and fishing—both saltwater and freshwater—as well as other outdoor activities. Birdwatchers are likely to be especially busy, in view of the 174 different species in the area.

My interest, though, was to check out the inn and to breathe in a little island atmosphere. I followed the highway south through Oak Harbor and along the water’s edge of Penn Cove. With a left turn onto Madrona Way, followed by another left onto Captain Whidbey Inn Road, I arrived at the inn.

I was greeted by innkeeper Capt. John Colby Stone, a friendly and knowledgeable host. We chatted for a bit about the history of the inn and attractions of the area, and I then climbed the narrow staircase to my room. I settled in and turned my thoughts to dinner. The inn has an excellent dining option in-house, The Cove Restaurant, which features the gourmet cuisine of Chef James Roberts. But I was in the mood for something casual and was feeling my usual post-arrival urge to explore the local area. I decided to head into town, in search of photo opportunities and food.

Coupeville was established in 1852, making it one of the oldest towns in the state of Washington. It has that wonderful, quaint atmosphere that I adore, filled as it is with restored historic houses, shops, and restaurants. The view of Puget Sound is wonderful. Visitors can get a dose of both small town America and coastal sea village all wrapped up in one. Situated within the boundaries of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, residents and merchants of this town are dedicated to preserving its heritage.

I took a few minutes to wander along the sidewalk, the late afternoon sun resting against the weathered storefronts. I stopped in at Great Times, a coffee house that also sells used mystery books. They were just closing for the day, but I had a chance to browse a little and admire the water view.

I found dinner at The Mad Crab, one of many eateries along the main drag.

I grabbed a window table and ordered (of all things) lasagna, on which I carb-feasted while looking out across the sound. A snow-capped Mt. Baker hovered on the horizon. The motion of the water gave the impression of dining on a boat.

As I finished my meal, the sun dropped behind the trees, leaving the clouds backlit and glowing. I watched as the last bit of light disappeared beyond the Coupeville Wharf.

With the sun down and the shops now closed, I returned to the inn to enjoy the fireplace in the downstairs lobby. Capt. Stone was kind enough to allow me to run a phone line into his office for Internet access. Since I carry 50-100 feet of phone cord with me on the road (just makes you want to pretend you don’t know me, doesn’t it?), I positioned it along the side of the wall, making it reach my cozy, overstuffed seat near the fire.

The captain is not just a captain in nickname. A world sailor, Capt. Stone spends much of his time offering day tours and island-hopping charter trips about the Cutty Sark, a sleek teak ketch – try saying that three times rapidly. His passion for sailing is more than evident. He spoke of his plans to retrace the route of General George Vancouver’s voyage of 1792.

The inn serves a full breakfast, but also gives guests the option of booking lodging without breakfast included. I chose this, both to save money and in order to make up for the abundant food I had managed to scarf up during the prior week of traveling with my father.

This was not my first visit to Whidbey Island. I had been there five years before, when I stayed in Greenbank at what is now called the Whidbey Island Log Cabin Rentals. On that trip, I was able to also explore the town of Langley, a bit south of Coupeville and also on the eastern side of the island. A paradise for shoppers, Langley is also a keen center for visual and performing arts.

On this trip, however, I didn’t feel I had the time to continue south. I packed my things, said my thank yous, and checked out of the inn. With an hour detour in Oak Harbor to try to resolve my laptop issues, I drove back over Deception Pass and onto the mainland, working my way south until I turned east on Rte. 2. I still had one night free before I had to be in Idaho. I headed up over Stevens Pass, wondering where the road would take me next.