May 1, 2003
Like a star-struck tourist, I approached Assateague Island National Seashore with one thing in mind: I wanted to see the wild ponies. I’d heard they could usually be seen, but not always. I was determined to stay there until they overcame any temporary shyness. Maybe I’d stay an extra night, I thought – close by, as there are no lodging facilities on the island, though there is camping. Or maybe I’d hide away in the marsh somewhere. I might even end up living and dying there, I thought, if I had to. I wasn’t leaving until I found the wild ponies.
Berlin, MD, was a perfect launch point. I checked out of the Atlantic Hotel and took scenic back roads to the coast, a short drive. From the end of Rte. 611, over the bridge I headed, finding myself soon at the ranger station, where I paid my day fee and resisted asking the obvious question. I figured they’d heard it a few too many times. I would find the wild ponies on my own.
Armed with a map of the island, indicating permissible trails and roads, I started out on my quest. Pristine and almost deserted, the island felt like it was mine alone.
My first stop was the Old Ferry Landing, bordered by sandy beach areas and walking trails through the marsh. Beyond the wooden platforms, additional trails led out to the water’s edge. In quiet peace, egrets and herons rested near inlets and on branches. I walked as silently as possible and, in seemingly mutual agreement, they allowed me fairly close.
Just down the road, the Life of the Marsh trail emerged, a wooden pathway that looped through swaying grasses and small wildflowers. Similar, but allowing access to different barrier island habitats, the Life of the Forest and Life of the Dunes trails provided more walking and resting areas. Hours passed as I almost forgot my original goal, so caught up in the wonder of hiking and photographing these amazing areas. An historic location on the east side of the central road holds the remains of a shipwreck, wooden planks weathered by the elements of nature.
The sun starting to lower, I looped side streets slowly until finding myself close to the entrance. Taunted by the exit sign, I turned around and took one last drive, back to the dune trail, then the forest, then the marsh. Campers on the eastern side settled into dinner preparations. A few people walked on the beach. The wind blew tall grasses back and forth. And the sun continued to lower.
It was as I headed once more toward the exit, my window rolled down to catch the breeze, that I heard the sound. One soft neigh, and not distant. I pulled the car over to the side of the road and listened. Again, the sound repeated itself. I was not imagining it. I grabbed my camera and quietly stepped out. I followed shrubbery alongside the road, the sound beckoning me closer. I held my breath, took cautious steps, and finally rounded a corner of brush which opened into a small clearing. And there, not one, not three, not five, but seven glorious ponies stood in the golden sun, beautiful brown and ivory tones of movement in the late afternoon. Nibbling on grass, they paid little attention to me, not approaching, yet not fearful. Content to pose for pictures as long as they weren’t disturbed.
I stood in awe for what seemed like hours, though I imagine it was only twenty minutes in all. Little by little, they edged down the road, feasting on grasses and leaves, nudging each other now and then, and soaking up the end of the afternoon sun, until they headed off into the brush and to the privacy of their island life.
What I came to find, of course, is that there is much to Assateague Island aside from the famous ponies. The hush of the silence across the marsh, forest and dunes, speckled with frequent birdsong and slight breezes, is a magic all of its own. Trails and benches are so well-blended with their natural surroundings, they almost go unnoticed. I was greatly blessed by this visit, not only with my new-found equine friends, but with a renewal of appreciation of nature. I left with a recommitment to helping support our National Park and Wildlife services, as well as some amazing memories.