May 15, 2003
I put the brakes on in Edinburg, VA. I had called ahead and booked a room at the Inn at Narrow Passage, a Shenandoah Valley bed-and-breakfast housed in a 1740 restored colonial inn.
The inn has seen its share of history since being built in 1740 by German immigrants who had received a land grant from King George. It served as Stonewall Jackson’s headquarters during the Valley Campaign of 1862, and it is said that Jackson gave orders here to Jedediah Hotchkiss to “make me a map of the valley.” In the late 1800s, the building housed an exclusive school for girls.
The inn derives its name from a nearby section of the Great Wagon Road, now Route 11. A “narrow passage” on the route was only wide enough for one wagon, making it slow and dangerous for travel. The sturdy log inn provided safety from Indian attacks.
Innkeepers Ed and Ellen Markel offer exceptional hospitality and are extremely knowledgeable about the local area. They bought the inn in 1983 and spent two years constructing additional buildings, which offer suites that open onto porches, providing views of the Massanutten Mountains and Shenandoah River.
I’m always in search of historic surroundings and so took a room in the original log structure. Located just at the top of the stairs, on the left, it had thick log walls and antique furnishings. I adored it.
Guests had arrived from all directions that evening—New Jersey, Tennessee, even as far away as Germany. To each Ed offered tailor-made suggestions. For hikers, he gave directions to Signal Knob, where signals were sent between hills during the Civil War.
The temptation to settle in front of the fireplace was strong, and I spent most of the evening near the low stone hearth. Ed brought me a cup of colonial Tea, steaming hot and rich with citrus flavor. I jotted down notes, pausing frequently to take in the period decor around me. Winged-back chairs and plaid couches provided many lounging spots for guests. The natural pine floor reflected the glow of the fire. A tin chandelier held candle-flame shaped lights. And for those with a sweet tooth, a glass jar of homemade chocolate chip cookies awaited discovery on top of a piano.
Shenandoah means “Daughter of the Stars” in Iroquois dialect, and standing outside at night, it was easy to understand why. There was a mystical feeling to the valley. The stars shimmered as they looked down from above, and the land below spread out in hushed silence.
I was awake early and slipped outside for a walk in the crisp morning air. Frost covered the ground, and a mist rose up from the Shenandoah River, hovering in the air like a magical blanket. A suspension bridge crossed the river not far along the banks, and I gathered up my combined fears of heights and water and took an adventurous, shaky journey across the suspended walkway.
Returning to the inn, I wrapped my hands around a warm mug of coffee. There was a small crowd of breakfast seekers in the dining area, and I decided to wait until I could greedily covet a table by myself. An excellent full buffet breakfast soon followed—French toast, eggs, sausage, and donuts were among the buffet selections, as well as cereal and juice for lighter fare.
The inn had a two-night minimum on selected dates, which was perfect considering everything the area has to offer. Hiking, fishing, canoeing, horseback riding, antiquing, and music festivals are only some of the local activities. The Luray Caverns and scenic Skyline Drive are nearby, as well as two battlefields—New Market and Cedar Creek. Civil War reenactments are held each year at Belle Grove Plantation, drawing thousands of participants. And being located only one and a half hours from Washington, DC, makes a stay at this inn an easy weekend getaway.
